The Ziz Valley palm groves seen from the viewpoint
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Destination · The road from Fes

Ziz Valley & Middle Atlas cedars

Between Fes and Merzouga there is no shortcut, only a very good road: an alpine town, a cedar forest with monkeys, apple country, and a valley of palms that leads straight to the dunes.

Fes–Merzouga roadCedar forestBarbary macaquesZiz palm grovesMidelt
Fes to Merzougaabout 470 km
Info7–8 h with stops
Highest pointCol du Zad, 2,178 m
Lunch stopMidelt
Best monthsMar–Jun, Sep–Nov
In short

Ziz Valley & Middle Atlas cedars

This is not one place but a day's drive, and it is on every tour that touches Fes. Leaving Fes you climb into the Middle Atlas: Ifrane, a town built by the French in the 1930s that looks like a Swiss village and gets real snow; then the cedar forest around Azrou, where Barbary macaques sit on the roadside and the trees are several hundred years old. The road crosses a high plateau to Midelt — apples, a lunch stop, the last town of any size — and then drops through the Tizi n'Talghomt pass into the Ziz Valley: a canyon with a ribbon of palm groves along the river for 100 km, seen from a viewpoint that makes everyone get out of the car. After Errachidia and Erfoud the dunes appear. On our tours this is day one of Fes to Marrakech (ending at the Merzouga camp) or day three of Marrakech to Fes (ending in your Fes riad).

The cedar forest near Azrou in the Middle Atlas
The cedar forest near Azrou in the Middle Atlas
What to expect

Before you go

The road across the Middle Atlas plateau
The day

Around 7–8 hours of driving with four or five stops. Fes → Ifrane (1.5 h) → Azrou cedars (30 min) → Midelt, lunch (2 h) → Ziz Valley viewpoint (1 h) → Errachidia, Erfoud (1.5 h) → Merzouga (1 h). In the Fes-bound direction, the same in reverse, arriving in Fes around 18:00–19:00.

Palms along the Ziz river
Winter

Snow at Ifrane and on the Col du Zad is normal from December to February. The road is cleared; the drive is slower. Bring a jacket for the stops even if the desert was warm.

Ziz Valley & Middle Atlas cedars
Stops with a private driver

Ifrane's lake and the "stone lion", a walk in the cedars, the source of the Oum Er-Rbia river (a detour), the Erfoud fossil workshops. On shared tours the stops are fixed: cedars, Midelt lunch, Ziz viewpoint.

Getting there

How our tours do it

FromRoad timeHow our tours do it
FesIfrane 1.5 h · Azrou 2 h · Midelt 3.5 h · Ziz viewpoint 5 h · Merzouga 7–8 hDay 1 of Fes → Marrakech; day 3 of Marrakech → Fes
MerzougaReverse of the above
Casablanca~300 km to Fes, then the same roadCasablanca → Marrakech 4-day and 6-day tours
Dades / Tinghir~240 km · 4 h to Errachidia via the south roadNot used; our loops go via Merzouga
When to go

Best time to visit

  • March–June: apple blossom in Midelt, green plateau, snow still on the Ayachi.
  • September–November: clear light, harvest in the valley, cool forest.
  • December–February: snow at Ifrane and the passes; beautiful, slower, cold stops.
  • July–August: the forest and plateau are pleasant; the Ziz Valley and Erfoud are hot.
Where you'll stay

Stays on this route

    Good to know

    Practical, honest, short

    • Don't feed the monkeysSellers offer peanuts; the macaques are better off without them and can bite.
    • Long day, plan the bagWater, a warm layer, a book. The best views are in the second half.
    • Motion sicknesson the Tizi n'Talghomt and the Ifrane climb: front seat, medication if you need it.
    Questions

    Before you go

    Is the Fes to Merzouga drive boring?
    It is long, not boring. Forest, plateau, mountains and the Ziz canyon are four different landscapes in one day. The last hour after Erfoud is flat and plain — then the dunes appear.
    Can we stop in Ifrane?
    Yes, briefly on all tours (photo, coffee); longer on private tours.
    Where do we have lunch?
    Midelt on most tours — simple restaurants, tagines and grilled meat, about €8–12.
    Is the road open in winter?
    Yes. It closes for a few hours after heavy snow at the Col du Zad; our drivers check the night before and we adjust the departure time if needed.
    Start your journey

    The road is the reason to go one way.

    Marrakech to Fes or Fes to Marrakech: three days, two very different roads, one desert in the middle.